Vintage Sewing Pattern How-Tos

Interested in sewing from vintage patterns, but not sure where to start? Here are some tips for choosing and using patterns.

1. How do I know it's all there?

Printed vintage patterns: These make it easy to check! Just count the number of pieces and compare to the number given on the envelope back or instruction sheet, making sure that the size and pattern number given are all the same.

Unprinted sewing patterns: Up until the late 1940s/early 1950s, most sewing patterns were printed without any identifying marks except perforations and points to use in matching up the pieces and the cut fabric. Most brands marked each piece with a perforated number or letter for identification (Vogue often printed the whole name of the piece), but not a pattern number or size. If you find an unprinted vintage sewing pattern, count the number of pieces inside the envelope and check them against the drawing on the envelope back or instruction sheet (I find the easiest way to do this is to hold them up to a light source and locate the perforated number or letter).

2. What if pieces are missing?

First, determine if the pieces are major (like a bodice piece) or minor (like a patch pocket). This is where your own skills come into play -- if you're skilled at sewing or have a lot of patterns similar to the one with missing pieces, you can probably make up replacements. Very minor pieces like patch pockets are relatively simple to make up on your own -- think of it as a chance to customize your garment! I frequently find old patterns with extra pieces from different patterns in the envelope, either to replace missing pieces or to change an aspect of the design to one the maker preferred. A missing piece is not the end for a pattern you love!

3. A size 12 is a bust WHAT?!

Vintage sizes are not modern sizes! A size 12 was a 30" bust until 1956, when it went up a whole 2" to 32", and then again in 1967 to 34". Waist measurements also changed, with many 1950s patterns featuring measurements reflecting the multitude of undergarments worn under clothes to give a nipped-in look at the midsection. Another important measurement to check is the back length, which is often the sticking point for many a taller lady! If your back length differs from that of the pattern you want to make, determine the extra amount of fabric you'll need to purchase and the best way to adjust the pattern for fit before cutting your fabric. Many instruction sheets offer tips for adjusting the patterns they accompany.

4. What do I look for when buying vintage patterns online?

Information! A knowledgeable seller should present all the things you'll need to know, such as the pattern measurements and not just the size, the completeness of the pattern, the age of the pattern and the condition of the envelope. You may see the term 'factory folds'/'factory folded', which indicates that a pattern is unused. Older patterns generally didn't come with all pieces printed on a large sheet, like they do now, but with major pieces on their own sheets with a margin at the edge. Sometimes smaller pieces shared a sheet, sometimes they had their own. Since most pattern companies had set up with unprinted patterns that came pre-cut, this was probably the easiest solution for them once printing became standard.

Once you have your patterns, the fun begins! Choose your fabrics, notions and any trim you desire. The same pattern can lend itself to a variety of looks and occasions depending on your fabric choice; a classic 1950s New Look pattern could be a sunny day dress in a simple cotton print or an evening stunner in satin or tulle, and a 1960s shift dress can go from beach blanket beauty to office chic without requiring the purchase of a new pattern for each style. Enjoy every stitch, and keep on sewing!

Spring is in the air!

At least on this side of the world; soon, Spring will be all over cars, houses, us, making everything a dusty shade of yellow. So what better time to stay indoors and sew something new? Here are some picks for springtime style:





Butterick 4510 mixes 60s sophistication with a flattering A line silhouette -- wear it on its own, or with a cardigan for that unpredictable Spring forecast!




Simplicity 7635 features Mod lines and a different neckline for a warm-weather winner!



Fashion doesn't stop at the hemline -- add these vintage 1960s thigh-his for a softer take on the classic fishnet.




Can't forget the little ones! Simplicity 3068 is a delightful 1940s design that will add a special touch to Passover or Easter services.



And for our friends on the other side of the hemisphere, a lovely collection of 1950s knitting patterns that will help you knit all kinds of retro beauties to keep you warm!